Anchorage, AK to Incheon, South Korea – Day 16 & 17

Posted on 08/12/2012 by rallyaroundtheworld

Sunday & Monday, 12-13 August 2012 Anchorage, AK to Incheon, South Korea (0 miles) Total Trip Miles – 4723. 0 hour riding time. Total flight time – 15 hours. Miles – 6500

Set the alarm for 2:30 am, finished packing up the gear and headed over to the airport to check my 4 bags for a 6:20 departure…the bag check took close to an hour due to the compressed cans of chain lube, stove fuel, fire extinguisher and the like. To assure the gear made the flight Alaska Airlines recommended that I take each bag to the TSA oversize bag check point which took some time due to all the pets, hunting gear & fishing gear being checked. TSA would not approve any of the items, so I had to donate them to the trash can…oh well, that’s just air travel today. To make things even more difficult and since I was traveling internationally, Asiana Airlines charged me $100 per bag totaling $400 – OUCH!

Anyhow, the gear must go, so I pulled out the credit card and paid the bags way to Inchon.

The flight from Anchorage to Seatle was just over an hour with a 3 hour layover before boarding Asiana Airlines for Inchon – an 11 hour flight which is scheduled to arrive at 6pm local time or 4 am on Monday central time.

Since I doubt there will be many opportunities for a burger & fries, I ended up having one for my breakfast/lunch…man was is good!

The flight ended up being delayed for about an hour, but the service and aircraft was outstanding…served two full meals along with drinks and snacks which made the 11 flight bearable. Also, each seat had its own video monitor offering a wide selection of movies, TV shows and the like. Once I landed in Incheon and made my way over to baggage claim, the only bag that arrived was my duffle bag that contained most of my gear that is strapped to the bike like the tent, sleeping bag and the like.

As I was about to make my way over to the claim department, I noticed a security officer carting my panniers and top case; one was wrapped with a large, red locking cable and security tape. Apparently something suspicious showed up on the x-ray and what would be equivalent to ourTSA, removed all the contents from one pannier clearing me on my way. While searching for a taxi, I stopped by an information booth to see what I could find out about ground transportation to Dong Hae tomorrow. I wasn’t quite satisfied with the initial options which included me lugging a couple hundred pounds of my gear onboard a city-type transit bus and given I haven’t had a shower in a week (been Sponge Brad, Square Pants) & limited sleep the last 48 hours, I decided to deal with that issue tomorrow.

Grabbed a “jumbo” taxi to the Best Western – Incheon and winding down hoping to get some rest and a nice shower!

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Anchorage, AK – Day 15

Posted on 08/12/2012 by rallyaroundtheworld

Saturday, 11 August 2012 Anchorage, AK (0 miles) Total Trip Miles – 4723. 0 hour riding time.

Weather – Warm temperatures in the upper 60’s with mostly sunny skies

Up early to be at the DHL/Polar Air Cargo facility by 8am to unlock the gas tank and open the seat for the hazmat inspection if needed…I had several last minute converstations with Rindy Veatch at DHL late yesterday and she felt it would be a good idea that I was there in case there were any issues. The bike checked out and will be on a flight tonight bound for Inchon.

After the inspection had some breakfast and returned to the Alaska Scientific warehouse and started some packing…also, went online and checked on for my flight in the morning and had to complete all the passport info and the like – ended up having to pay and addtional $110 for the 4 bags I plan to check (2 panniers, 1 top case & a duffle bag of gear)…seemed reasonable given they are checked all the way to Inchon.

Del stopped by and invited me to lunch at The Peanut Farm, a local sports bar, and we sat out on the deck – a beautiful day. From there, I went to get a haircut & some more hair gel…that’s right hair gel – a man getting ready for a 20+ day marathon ride can never be too prepared…I gotta believe there will be a slow and downward spiral from here on out!…metro we call it in Nashville!

Also, went by Alaska Leather, the spot where I ordered my sheepskin butt pad several months ago, and picked up a neck gator & some sun glass…things I lost on the road in Canada a couple of weeks ago. I just couldn’t resist putting the Alaska decals on the bike panniers that they gave me – 8 stars of gold on a field of blue.

Did some final packing since I have a 6:20 am flight down to Seattle and then on for an 11 hour flight to Inchon…plan to get up around 3:00 am to return the pick up I have and get checked in for the international flight…Scheduled to arrive in Inchon at 6:00 pm local time on Monday afternoon or 14 hours ahead of the central time zone which means it will only be 4:00 am on Monday morning…I know Chuck – Mr. Obvious!

Day has ended with a terrific feast at Del & Kim Salyer’s home along with their friends Ryan & Jessica – Alaskan King Crab legs, grilled shrimp & vegetables, salmon sushi, and topped off with a fruit bowl of Korean fruit, peaches & blackberries. Thank you Del & Kim for the wonderful hospitality during my stay here in Anchorage along with all the folks at Alaska Scientific – Beth, Kim, Sharlane & Jeron!

Anchorage, AK – Day 14

Posted on 08/11/2012 by rallyaroundtheworld

Friday, 10 August 2012 Anchorage, AK (0 miles) Total Trip Miles – 4723. 0 hour riding time. Anchorage to Homer, AK round trip by truck (498 miles)

Weather – Cool temperatures in the mid 50’s with mostly cloudy skies

Decided to rent a car for the next couple of days and ended up getting an upgrade to a crew cab GMC Canyon – since I’m flying out early on Sunday morning for Inchon, thought I might do some sightseeing in the area. After talking with Beth, Sharlane & Kim at Alaska Scientific about some options, I decided to head south to the port city Homer. Since I was heading that way, I asked if they needed any products delivered and there was a large order for lab reagents for the hospital – what a great opportunity!

Loaded and on my way with 500+ lbs of liquid reagents, I started south for about 220 miles to South Peninsula Hospital in Homer to meet the laboratory director, Laura Miller and make the delivery – just can’t beat the same day service! After a brief tour of the lab and a photo op, I toured the city and drove out on the Homer Spit which protrudes out into the bay for some quick pics.

On my way back to Anchorage, I could help notice all the people fishing for salmon along both the Kenai and Russian Rivers – apparently the Sockeye salmon run is winding down, but KIng’s, Chum’s or Pink’s are on the rise. Had a pulled pork sandwich at Sackett’s near Cooper Landing and met a fishery expert from Washington State – he filled me in on all fishing activities.

Got a beautiful late-day shot of Kenai Lake and note the float plane in the distance – there are thousands of them throughout Alaska and you see them on just about any waterway; they are the only mode of transporation in many parts of Alaska. From there I turned off at Portage Glacier and was honestly a bit disturbed by how much the glacier had melted and receded since I was last there in the late 70’s…back then the face of the glacier was just beyond the ice floating in the foreground – you can see the glacier way off in the distance. Still can remember an Arab man from a tour bus waving the bus driver to wait as he filmed a small chunk of ice floating in the lake; he kept pushing and filming the ice for the folks back home to see and have to believe he was amazed that ice even existed outside in a natural state! My mom has a picture taken of the fella and I’ll have to make a trip over to North Carolina soon to check it out…

Kim recommended that I stop by the Double Musky in Girdwood for a drink & some dinner – apparently the late senator from Alaska, Ted Stevens, frequented the spot; he actually nominated me for West Point & still have his telegram he sent.

Since it was getting late, I just had the halibut ceviche appetizer and it was terrific along with a couple of my favorite beverages – a very cool spot with a lot of history. The town of Girdwood is at the base of Alyeska Ski Resort and I drove up to check it out – a moderate size mountain with some pretty agressive terrain.

A long, but very rewarding day to see some of the old sights I had not seen in almost 40 years with my family…were the best of times!

Anchorage, AK – Day 13

Posted on 08/09/2012 by rallyaroundtheworld

Thursday, 9 August 2012 Anchorage, AK (0 miles) Total Trip Miles – 4723. 0 hour riding time

Weather – Warm temperatures in the mid 70’s with mostly sunny skies. Not sure if Anchorage has ever had any 90 degree+ temperatures and rarely does it reach the 80’s

Happy birthday to my brother Tye down in San Antonio, TX…he has been doing a terrific job following me and provding updated weather and other route information! While I know you bleed Texan after living down there for over 30 years, do know that the folks in Alberta, Canada have the same air about their province – everything is BIG in Alberta!

Spent the first part of my day reviewing the trip with a special focus on the ride across Siberia; I was considering the possibility of booking some hotel nights in some of the larger cities, but since I have no sense as to the kind of mileage progress I can expect daily, I’ve decided to leave it open for now – just roll the dice and ride west. The ride from Vladivostok to the Latvian/Russian border will be a marathon covering 7500 miles in 11 to 12 days.

Additionally, I was on the phone and swaping emails with Rindy Veatch at DHL to finalize the airway bill and information requested by Wendy Choi in Korea to clear customs. She also arranged for Legacy Logistics to pick up the bike at Alaska Scientific and they arrived with a box truck – just wasn’t sure the shipping crate would fit through the rear overhead door on the truck, but it cleared with about 6 inches to spare. The bike is shipping to Inchon, South Korea on Saturday via Polar Air Cargo and with my flight, customs clearance and transportation from Inchon to Dong Hae, I won’t see it again until next Thursday, 16 August at the bonded warehouse at the DBS Ferry yard. Wendy has requested permission for me to gain access to the bike in the warehouse allowing me to opportunity to uncrate and reassemble prior to catching the ferry to Vladivostok on Sunday the 19th.

Update: Just have had several emails from Wendy Choi and she did get permission for me to uncrate & assemble the bike at the DBS bonded warehouse on Friday, 17 August – apparently they have a large vessel to unload on Thursday, but that’s great news. This allows me to get the bike back together prior to the ferry trip to Vladivostok so I can begin my trip across Siberia with little delay. Additionally, it appears all the DHL paperwork is in order and I can clear customs in 24 hours. Wendy is also arranging for the bike be shipped from Inchon to Dong Hae by bonded truck – about 130 miles and I’ll be taking a shuttle or bus to Dong Hae on Tuesday. Wednesday is a national holiday in Korea similar to our 4th of July Independence Day celebration…be cool to be a part of the festivities. Wendy Choi may be reached at AERO INTERNATIONAL, LTD at +82(0) 17-213-3961 or wendychoi2@gmail.com

Once again I joined Del & Kim for dinner and this time it was a local Mexican spot named Los Arcos – I had the chile relleno and Kim allowed me to share some of her Halibut cerviche – it was excellent. Oh…and I had my first & second Don Julio Reposado Tequila since starting my trip – believe I did, however, induldge in a Patron Silver once or twice.

Tomorrow I’ll share my warehouse, handwashing – laundry techniques developed while on the road traveling to some of the most inhospitalble corners of the planet. I know that’s a stretch and since I’ve done little in the category of any kind for several years now…tune in! Laundry Boy I be….

Anchorage, AK – Day 12

Posted on 08/09/2012 by rallyaroundtheworld

Wednesday, 8 August 2012 Anchorage, AK (0 miles) Total Trip Miles – 4723. 0 hour riding time

Weather – Warm temperatures in the mid 60’s with mostly cloudy skies

Today I put the final touches on crating the bike for shipment and had several discussions with Rindy Veatch at DHL to finalize the pick up time for the bike and air bill paperwork. Rindy has been in contact with Wendy Choi in Korea, who will be handling my customs paperwork, and I hope to have all that completed prior to the bike shipment on Saturday. Wendy Choi may be reached at AERO INTERNATIONAL, LTD at +82(0) 17-213-3961 or wendychoi2@gmail.com

During my stay here in Anchorage, Del Salyer at Alaska Scientific was gracious enough to allow me to stay these few days in his “bachelor’s pad” on the mezzanine level of his warehouse – quite a comfortable spot overlooking the many medical products he keeps in stock for the remote villages and towns across the entire state of Alaska. The area is well-furnished with all the ammenities including a very comfortable recliner as a sitting & work area.

Accommodations include a fully-stocked kitchen area complete with refrigerator, microwave and everything you might find in your own home. The bathroom is spacious and includes a sink, toilet and a unique bathing & showering system developed exclusively by Del; comes complete with 2 different size bowl depending on the amount of rinsing water required along with a spacious plastic tub to collect the water. Friends now call me…Sponge Brad, Square Pants!

Honestly, the area is very quiet and comfortable providing me with some much needed rest and relaxation before I begin the next marathon leg of Rally Around the World across Korea, Russian and eastern & western Europe.

Anchorage offers excellent dining and lunch was no exception at Southside Restaurant with Del & Sharlane – I had the pasta in chipolte with andouille sausage & sundried peppers…pretty tasty. We continued our discussions on the state of healthcare reform and the possible impact on the Alaskan market along with new lab, products NDC has in the pipeline.

For dinner, Del & Kim invited me over to their home for grilled salmon, shrimp and vegetables along with black & brown rice and salmon sushi caught fresh in the Russian River by Kim’s cousin – believe I could have that sushi for breakfast! Kim, Del’s wife, is a very petite, amazing and exciting woman to talk with and has had so many adventures including a bear scare while fishing for salmon in the area, crashing a Piper Cub airplane (says that one cost her quite a bit of money) and owning a Harley Davidson Dyna Glide that she bought new and has only ridden 9 miles after driving off the showroom floor – the bike is in pristine condition in one of her out buildings not being touched for 8 – 10 years….just terrific stories and a joy to be around.

Anchorage, AK – Day 11

Posted on 08/08/2012 by rallyaroundtheworld

Monday, 7 August 2012 Anchorage, AK (57 miles) Total Trip Miles – 4723. 2 hour riding time

Weather – Warm temperatures in the mid 60’s with mostly sunny skies

Started the day early and met Kurt Grau at Anchorage Suzuki/Arctic Cat at 7:30 am to get the final service on the bike before air freighting to Inchon, South Korea. As you may recall, I had some real concerns about the drive chain stretching over the course of just two days; however, Kurt showed me an example of a bad chain & sprocket from a V-Strom 1000 so no more issues. Also, the sprocket does float in rubber dampners so there is some movement in the attachment. With the load I’m carrying, Kurt adjusted the chain on the high tolerance with about 1.25″ deflection – loose that is or risk snapping the chain when driving over rough roads and that ain’t good! Changed the oil & filter and just decided to take a new air cleaner with me since the one in the bike was changed back in Cool Springs just prior to me leaving on trip. New tires front and back that I hope take me the 7000 miles or so across Russia – running 3 lbs more pressure in the front and 4 lbs more in the rear due to the load.

I’ve met a few folks from Anchorage that were born & raised in the area and that’s a bit unusual – there are many, many transplants; however, Kurt & his father are native to Anchorage. Enjoyed hearing about all the changes over the years and what a great place to live if you enjoy outside activities.

Del Salyer with Alaska Scientific invited me to lunch at Jen’s – the menu was broad and I chose the pepper steak which was terrific…we discussed the state of his healthcare business in Alaska and its uniqueness given the remoteness of most of his customers – a very nice operation that’s been serving the area for over 23 years.

You may also recall I had a bit of misfortune while riding in Canada on that cold, windy & rainy day – ended up leaving the majority of my cold weather gear at a gas stop. While is was only one small bag, it contained clothing that was crucial to the trip. Well the folks at NDC got together and sent me a REI gift card as well as a care package of essentials – you know things like Cafe Francais, hot balls, gum balls, Anti Monkey Butt Powder, Bourdreaux’s Butt Paste, trail mix, breakfast bars…some of this stuff just makes me hongry! Thank you Chuck, Michele, Melissa, Laura and Natalie for the wonderfully designed card.

Well my next stop in the afternoon was, you got it…REI and I was able to pick up a few things like thermal underwear and a pair of long pants to replace some of the lost items…all is good in Rally World!

Once I completed some of my errands, I arrived back at Alaska Scientific around 4:30 and decided to go ahead and start he process of crating the bike for shipment. Since I actually had a factory Suzuki crate and had never seen a bike in one, I wasn’t quite sure how much disassembly would be required. With the crating required minimually that the front wheel be removed, the fork lift in the warehouse came in quite handy using a rope around the handle bars, removing the wheel, lowering into a bracket and finally securing. To complete the install, I had to remove the windshield and all brackets as well as the handle bars, control cables and the like. This initial phase took about 5 and I wasn’t rushed…still have a few things that will need to be secured, but the bulk of the crating is completed.

Fairbanks, AK to Anchorage, AK – Day 10

Posted on 08/07/2012 by rallyaroundtheworld

Monday, 6 August 2012 Fairbanks, AK to Anchorage, AK (381 miles) Total Trip Miles – 4666. 6 hour riding time.

Weather – Cool with temperatures in the mid 40’s to mid 60’s with mostly cloudy skies with some sunshine.

Had breakfast with Mike & Vicki Kennebec after waking up to a sunny, balmy 43 degree morning in Fairbanks…Vicki also packed a nice lunch for me – ham & cheese sandwich, chips, chocolate chip cookies, mixed nuts & a banana…it sure was tasty on the road especially when you are hongry!

Made my way out of Fairbanks heading south on two-lane, Alaska Hwy 3 with very little traffic and few large trucks which only confirmed Mike’s comments the day before that the majority of goods shipped into Fairbanks are by rail. After passing through the small village of Nenana, Denali National Park was next and all I could hope for was some clear skies to possibly get a glimpse of Denali, or known for a long time as Mt. McKinley, but the skies were cloudy approaching from the north.

Typically the best view is from the south and as the clouds started to break, I found myself constantly looking in my mirrors for the massive peaks. At a parking area south of the park, I noticed quite a few folks looking back to the north, many with cameras. And there she was, Denali and not a cloud in the ski – the tallest mountain in North America at 20,320 feet with both the north & south peaks exposed for all to see. Later I learned that Denali is only visible about every 2 weeks due to weather conditions and while living in Alaska back in the 70’s, I can only remember seeing the mountain a handful of times.

Passed through a number of towns including Wasilla – believe there is may be a political figure that once winked at me from the television that may be from that town. Anyhow, I kept looking at my clock and wanted to get into Anchorage early so I could have someone from the Suzuki dealership look at my drive chain in case there needed to be some parts ordered for a repair.

After going inside Anchorage Suzuki/Arctic Cat I met the service manager David and he asked one of his techs, Kurt to come outside and take a look – he reached down and grabbed the chain an said it’s adjusted too tight for the load I’m carrying and he’d seen them break under similar conditions – he recommend I run the chain play at the high end of the tolerance – loose in simplest terms. Also, he’d seen V-Stroms run 60,000 miles or more before needing a chain replacement…at least now I feel a bit better about riding another 10,000 miles across Russia and Europe! I have a complete service scheduled with them the following morning including tires and a proper chain adjustment.

Next I headed over the DHL to check on the shipment of the bike to Inchon, South Korea scheduled for the weekend and finally got to meet Rindy Veatch – she has done a fantastic job getting me a good shipping rate throught Polar Air Cargo. We discussed the paperwork, pick up times for the bike and payment, and for now, it looks like they will pick up the crated bike on Thursday for shipment on Saturday.

Made my way over to Alaska Scientific where I was greeted by Del Salyer in the parking lot – I had called their office trying to find their location since there was major road construction in the area with detours. After some brief introductions and a tour of the facility, the folks there helped me find an “old-style” carwash with the hand wands so I could spray off the ten days of glacial silt, mud and bugs of all types – some I can’t even pronounce.

Later, I joined Del, his wife Kim and several from Alaska Scientific for a dinner at an Italian restaurant – it was also Kim’s birthday and I was happy to be a part of the celebration.

Whitehorse, YT to Fairbanks, AK – Day 9

Posted on 08/06/2012 by rallyaroundtheworld

Fred Wilkinson – Eugene, OR

Sunday, 5 August 2012 Whitehorse, YT Canada to Fairbanks, AK (617 miles) Total Trip Miles – 4285. 11.25 hour riding time.

Weather – Cool with temperatures in the mid 40’s to mid 60’s with some rain, moderate winds and mostly cloudy most of the day

While loading the bike this morning and after doing my overall bike check, I notice the chain play to be a bit excessive – made necessary adjustments. Have some concerns since this is the first time in over 9000 miles the chain required adjustment. At the end of today’s ride the chain required adjustment again and there seems to be some sideplay between the rear sprocket and chain as well some some play between the sprocket and wheel hub.

As I rode out of Whitehouse there was moderate ran and the roads were covered with glacial silk which covered me and the bike with a light gray film….an absolute mess! On a more positive note, about 20 miles outside of Whitehorse I spotted a brown bear just off the left side of the road and as I turned around for a picture, he reared up on his hind legs and scented the air then darted into the woods for cover…pretty cool stuff.

Briefly chatted with a rider from Eugene, OR named Fred Wilkinson who was also riding north to Fairbanks, but we ended up initially leaving Whitehorse at different times…I actually passed him as he was at a roadside marker pulloff and sounded my horn & waved only to later run into him at the first gas stop. Ed ended up leading our ride all the way into Fairbanks where we parted ways – he planned to spend and extra day in Fairbanks touring the city.

Crossed the US – Canadian border at about 2pm local time…the last time I stood at this spot was early June 1973…brought back some great memories of a great time in not only my life, but the lives of my parents and brother and sister – Tye & Portland. Passed Quartz, Birch & Harding Lakes as well as the Salcha River – some great times fishing and boating those areas. Arrived at my lifelong friend Mike Kennebec from high school in Fairbanks and his wife Vicki’s home about 5:30 – she prepared a fabulous dinner that included key lime pie. Also got the opportunithy to catch up on some much needed laundry in their super, high-tech washer & dryer. Mike took me on a tour of the city and for the most part it’s the same as when I left some 34 years ago.

Fort Nelson, BC to Whitehorse, YT Canada – Day 8

Posted on 08/05/2012 by rallyaroundtheworld

Summit Lake, BC

Saturday, 4 August 2012 Fort Nelson, BC to Whitehorse, YT Canada (616 miles) Total Trip Miles – 3668. 10.5 hour riding time.

Weather – Cool with temperatures in the mid 40’s to mid 60’s with moderate winds and mostly sunny.

Great riding weather and today brought some of the most beautiful views since the beginning of the trip along with more wildlife sighted. Within the first hour of heading out from Ft. Nelson, I rounded a curve to find a large cow moose standing in the road. As I slowed to stop I noticed its calf to my right in the tree line and at the same time the cow moose crossed the road to my left. Soon after the calf started moving behind me placing me between both the cow & the calf…at that moment the cow came charging back towards me and the bike – no problem here…I know my place and rolled northbound with no time to snap a picture. I also sighted some Elk calfs and quite a bit of Buffalo grazing along the roadside – that right Tye, I do have some pics to post!!

Passed quite a few bike riders heading in the opposite direction and chatted with several at gas stops and also passed several couples on bicycles carrying all their gear along the Alaska Highway. Arrived in Whitehorse about 6:30pm and booked at room at the High Country Inn downtown.

Looking forward to the ride tomorrow up to Fairbanks – spent 5 years there in junior high and high school and in many respects, it will fill like returning home. It was there I had my first motorcycle, a Harley Davidison 350 Sprint, I learned to ski, hunt, fish, snowmachine, work on aircraft…just about everything I’m passoniate about today. My last visit to the area was back in 1993…so long to be away.

Edmonton, AB to Fort Nelson, BC Canada – Day 7

Posted on 08/04/2012 by rallyaroundtheworld

Rally Bike

Friday, 3 August 2012 Edmonton, AB to Fort Nelson, BC Canada (654 miles) Total Trip Miles – 3052. 11 hour riding time.

Weather – Cool with temperatures in the mid 50’s to upper mid 70’s with moderate winds and mostly sunny.

Decided to buy a 2 gallon gas can and not use the two saddle tanks until Russia – just don’t want any issues with the airlines no allowing me to check as baggage once they have had gasoline in them. On the Alaska Highway fuel stops along the route are limited and having a spare can of gas provides me with some added piece of mind.

About a third of the roadway today way a 4-lane and for the most part I was able to maintain the speed limit…once on 2-lanes there were a number of slow downs since the Alaska Highway has quite a few trucks traveling in both directions. Also, ran into several areas under construction that were gravel and, in once instance, I rounded a curve and was unable to slow before crossing a 200 foot long section that completely caught me by surprise.

So far, cell coverage has remained pretty good despite what I discovered researching my global coverage…hope it continues.

Arrived at the beginning of the Alaska Highway in Dawson Creek, BC…the last time I was there was May, 1973 with my family as we were movng up to Fairbanks, AK to live…back then the road was all gravel and was challenging at best with large trucks passing and showering you with rocks and dust – my Dad stopped in Dawson Creek to construct a huge screen on the front of our vehicle to protect the windshield from damage – crazy stuff!…today the new road is paved and does not have the old “Mileposts” that were so important to finding fuel, places to stay the night and restaurants & other services. The US Army constructed the highway, known as the ALCAN, in 1942 to provide strategic access from the lower 48 states to Alaska resulting from the war in the Pacific and the Japanese threat to the Aleutians and the west coast. There were actually some veterans of that construction in Dawson Creek to commerate construction of the highway.

The bike is covered with mud, dust and insects from the last 3000 miles of virtually any summer weather…the gravel sections of the Alaska Highway were so dusty today, vehicles were required to burn headlights.

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